Iwate and Fukushima Prefectures were devastated by the 2011 tsunami, which triggered a nuclear disaster. Now, the region is slowly reopening to visitors, offering a unique blend of poignant history and natural beauty.

Hope quietly reemerges along the Sanriku Railway Rias Line in north-eastern Honshu. Station platforms are adorned with summer blooms, while houses peek out from the forested hills. Passing rice fields glisten in imperial yellow as the train journeys along the once-ravaged coastline. On March 11, 2011, an earthquake with a magnitude of 9.1 triggered a massive tsunami, destroying infrastructure, forests, and homes across the region. The aftermath left a landscape of debris and loss.

Natural disasters are a harsh reality for Japan, an island nation sitting on fault lines. Honshu’s coastline bears many reminders of past tragedies, with memorials marking areas hit by the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami. Cairns, built long before the disaster, serve as warnings: “Don’t build homes below this point,” one reads. The tsunami’s devastation is etched in the landscape, yet the ocean today appears calm as the train moves north from Kamaishi to the small hamlet of Namiitakaigan.

In Namiitakaigan, life carries on, with flowers adorning cottage gardens near the station and a cenotaph marking the highest point the tsunami reached. Drawn by the story of the “Phone of the Wind,” a phone box created by local resident Itaru Sasaki, travelers come to find solace. Sasaki used the phone box to “speak” with his deceased cousin, and after the tsunami, it became a place for survivors to connect with their lost loved ones.

The region is filled with poignant contrasts. After visiting Sasaki’s garden, the mood brightens when a local woman sells pastries, offering a simple yet joyful connection to daily life. But memories of the tsunami are everywhere. At Minshuku Takamasu, Yasuko Nakamura welcomes guests with a smile, recalling through gestures and apps how she narrowly escaped the tsunami. While her guesthouse survived, many buildings nearby were destroyed. Yet life continues, with Nakamura’s guests, including local workers and schoolchildren, creating a sense of community.

For dinner, Nakamura serves dishes from the sea, which was once the source of devastation. The fisherman-diver at the table shares stories of resilience, noting how the rebuilding efforts are helping to make Otsuchi, a nearby town, stronger. Over a meal of wakame salad and grilled mackerel, stories of survival and hope are shared, a testament to the region’s recovery.

Travelers can explore the region via Japan Rail’s JR East Pass, connecting Tokyo to Kamaishi. From there, the privately owned Sanriku Railway Rias Line takes passengers to destinations like Namiitakaigan. Along the way, stations and platforms, once washed away by the tsunami, have been rebuilt. In Koishihama Station, a shrine adorned with scallop shells serves as a reminder of the sea’s power. Nearby, a group of preschoolers affixes their own tribute, a simple prayer of remembrance.

At Rikuzentakata, the Iwate Tsunami Memorial Museum stands as a striking monument to the disaster. Inside, survivor testimonies, multimedia displays, and objects recovered from the destruction – such as a crumpled fire truck and a child’s piano – offer a sobering reflection on the events of 2011. The museum also acknowledges the bureaucratic failures of the time while highlighting the global support that followed the disaster. This “wisdom” is passed down to future generations, as noted by the museum’s guide, Satoko Kinno.

Visitors are encouraged to climb the seawall overlooking a newly planted forest, which replaces the old pine plantation that once protected Rikuzentakata. Among the trees stands the Miracle Lone Pine Tree, the only survivor of the tsunami. Although it later died due to saltwater poisoning, the tree was preserved as a symbol of resilience. Nearby, the ruins of the Rikuzentakata Youth Hostel, now slumping into a pond, echo the sorrow of the past.

Continuing south, the railway line damaged by the tsunami is still under repair. Instead, travelers take the Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) to Kesennuma and then a train to Sendai. From there, the journey moves along the JR Joban Line towards Fukushima Prefecture, where the aftermath of the nuclear disaster lingers. Hotels remain scarce in the area, a stark reminder of the ongoing recovery efforts.

In Futaba, the Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum offers visitors a glimpse into the past and future. A model of the Fukushima Innovation Coast Framework envisions the area’s revitalization, with plans for lush farmland and vibrant communities. Though only a small number of residents have returned to Futaba, the town is slowly rebuilding, supported by newcomers and local authorities. Guide Kenichiro Hiramoto shares hope for the future, emphasizing the resilience of the community.

Further south in Iwaki, recovery is more evident. The city, heavily damaged by the tsunami, has rebounded, with locals like bar owner Kazuya Hanazawa playing a crucial role in the rebuilding efforts. Hanazawa’s bar, Burrows, offers a small but comforting space where he serves drinks and shares stories of survival. His bar, made from salvaged wood, stands as a symbol of renewal, echoing the region’s broader story of resilience.

As the journey along the coast of Iwate and Fukushima unfolds, it becomes clear that this region is marked by both sorrow and hope. From the poignant memorials and museums to the warm hospitality of locals like Nakamura and Hanazawa, the area embodies a deep resilience. While the scars of the tsunami and nuclear disaster remain, life continues, and the region welcomes visitors to witness its story of survival and recovery.