Once on the brink of extinction, Pacific gray whales in Mexico’s Laguna San Ignacio now exhibit a remarkable curiosity towards humans, often approaching boats and people. This transformation is exemplified during my recent outing, where our guide, José Sanchez, excitedly announced, “Here she comes again!” as a massive gray whale returned to our boat for the fifth time in just 45 minutes. Each encounter felt intimate; the 40-ton creature would linger at the surface, observing us as we gazed back, culminating in an exhilarating moment when the whale’s enormous eye met mine.
Our journey to see the so-called “friendlies” of Laguna San Ignacio, a haven for gray whales, was breathtaking. Nestled on the western coast of Baja California Sur, this lagoon is the last undisturbed breeding ground for Pacific gray whales. Here, the sanctuary allows for one of the most extraordinary wildlife experiences: whales regularly and willingly seek contact with humans.
Every year, from January to mid-April, thousands of gray whales make the 19,300-kilometer journey from the Arctic to the warm waters of Baja California Sur to mate and give birth. Once hunted in these very waters, gray whales have developed a surprising trust towards humans. During our tour with Sanchez’s eco-tourism company, Pure Baja Travels, we witnessed mothers proudly introducing their calves to our boats.
This remarkable behavior is not only a testament to the whales’ curiosity but also plays a crucial role in their conservation. Marine biologists have studied this unique interaction for decades. Dr. Steven Swartz, a cetacean researcher with 45 years of experience in Laguna San Ignacio, explains that today’s whales face no real threats in the lagoon. While they occasionally approach humans elsewhere, this lagoon remains the only place where they regularly engage with us, lingering long enough for us to touch them.
Whale-watching is carefully regulated in this sanctuary, with strict guidelines to ensure the whales’ comfort. Only 16 small fishing boats, known as pangas, are allowed in designated areas at any given time. Boats must turn off their engines when whales approach, ensuring that the whales feel safe. According to Swartz, guides let the whales decide if they want to interact, which preserves their autonomy and comfort.
The whales’ curiosity towards humans is linked to their sentience. Swartz highlights that mammals, including whales, learn about their environment through exploration and tactile interaction. While the gray whales are not focused on feeding during their time in the lagoon, they might be experiencing boredom, leading to their inquisitive behavior. Each encounter is voluntary, reinforcing the unique bond formed between humans and these gentle giants.
Historically, gray whales were nearly wiped out during the 18th and 19th centuries, leading to a natural wariness of humans. Local fishermen even referred to them as “devil fish.” However, everything changed in 1972 when a fisherman named Francisco (Pachico) Mayoral experienced a peaceful encounter with a gray whale. This whale approached his boat, and as Mayoral extended his hand, the whale rubbed against it. This moment shifted perceptions, encouraging locals to engage with the whales, realizing they were not the aggressive creatures they once believed.
Sanchez, who was among the first Mexican naturalists to guide whale-watching tours in the lagoon during the 1990s, saw a change in attitude towards gray whales. As time passed, both humans and whales grew less fearful of each other. The Mexican government established the San Ignacio Lagoon nature reserve in 1972, and in 1988, it became a designated whale sanctuary and biosphere reserve, culminating in its UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1993. The gray whale population rebounded and was removed from the endangered species list in 1994.
That same year, Mayoral alerted environmentalists to plans for a salt factory in the nature reserve, leading to a successful protest and conservation victory. This battle drew attention from notable activists, cementing the lagoon’s status as a conservation success story. Although Mayoral passed away in 2013, his legacy lives on as the “saviour of gray whales,” with his family continuing to operate whale-watching tours.
The interactions between humans and gray whales not only fostered a sense of stewardship but also laid the groundwork for a sustainable eco-tourism industry. This industry now serves as a vital source of income for local communities. Sanchez emphasizes that eco-tourism provides the economic foundation for the community, with residents actively monitoring and preserving the lagoon and its whale population.
Pure Baja Travel offers five-day trips, providing travelers with multiple opportunities to observe whales while also learning about the local conservation efforts. During my stay, I awoke to the sounds of whales and watched their vapor spouts while enjoying meals at our tented camp.
As climate change poses new challenges for both the lagoon and its whales, continued conservation efforts are crucial. Xiye Bastida, a young Mexican climate activist, is working to inspire the next generation through a documentary titled The Whale Lagoon. At just 22, Bastida connects the historical conservation efforts to the contemporary climate crisis, joining organizations like WildCoast, which has championed gray whale conservation for over four decades.
WildCoast’s co-founder, Serge Dedina, was instrumental in designating the lagoon as part of the El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve. He now views Laguna San Ignacio as a global model for combining wildlife protection with sustainable development. The organization focuses on training eco-tourism guides, enhancing community outreach, and implementing mangrove restoration projects that combat climate change.
With ongoing efforts to restore the lagoon’s mangroves—critical for carbon sequestration—local residents are also advocating for the regulation of development and tourism in the area. Bastida expresses the profound responsibility that comes with witnessing such trust from the whales. She describes their gentle nature, saying, “When the whale pushes up her calf so you can touch it, that is an immense amount of trust.” She hopes that people who engage with the whales will discover an instinct to protect these magnificent creatures.
